Sonoma Wineries:
Pinot
is King in the Green Valley
Developed on an old railroad bed, several miles of the West County Millennium Community Trail is paved for walking and bicycle riding, running through the Green Valley sub-appellation of the Russian River Viticultural Area, from Occidental Road near Graton north to Forestville between farms and vineyards. An unpaved equestrian trail runs alongside.
In this AVA, the noble burgundy grape, Pinot Noir, is king. The grape is notoriously difficult and expensive to grow because of the danger of powdery mildew in the cool, moist climates where it is grows best, and due to the grape’s thin skin, which is susceptible to splitting in the rain. Pinot Noir grapes produce vastly different styles of wine from every plot of ground where they are grown.
Green Valley Pinots are known to be fruitier and with somewhat
less minerality than most, with low tannin and relatively high
acid levels for a red grape. Words used to describe Green Valley
Pinots are lyrical––buttery bing cherry, dark fruit,
pomegranate, spicy cherry, spicy cola, cinnamon and clove, sometimes
with an earthiness like the smell and taste of mushrooms, and above
all, characteristically with an exceedingly long finish. And, therein
lies the fame and fortune of Green Valley.
The Pinots of Hartford Family Winery are made from grapes grown
in the Arrendell vineyard, a patch of land off Martinelli Road
that is said to be the chilliest in the valley––harvest
often does not occur until the end of October. The vineyard has
been referred to as the "Snow Shoe Vineyard" because
pruning crews have sometimes worn snowshoes to move around the
muddy rows. Hartford’s ruby-hued Pinots have complex aromas
of red raspberries, cherry jam, smoke and spice.
Named for an old wine-making family, Martinelli Road is one of the loveliest lanes in California, where a redwood, bay and maple forest is the backdrop for split-rail fences and vintage farm houses. The Martinelli Vineyard and the Jackass Hill Vineyard on the hillside above have been owned by the Martinelli family since the late 1800s. The family recalls that before the vines were planted, family and friends would gather on Sundays for picnics and parties, with Bing Martinelli playing his violin as people danced and drank vino. Since 1896, five generations have worked together to produce their apples and their wines. Martinelli Vineyards welcomes visitors to an historic, red hop barn on River Road, where Muscat the cat holds court in a retail shop crowded with old-fashioned china and cottagy trinkets.
Continue the Green Valley Winery Tour at Iron Horse Vineyards and Marimar Torres Estate Winery »
The article on this page is adapted from the book, Backroads of the California Wine Country by Karen Misuraca (www.karenmisuraca.com), published by Voyageur Press.
Photo Credit: The pictures on this page are by Lisa Moore. www.studioponderosa.com