The Michelin guide, he told us, was the most famous French guide to hotels and restaurants. Hotels were rated by the Michelin inspectors with house symbols, from one to five, with five being the highest rating. He opened the page to Cluny, and showed that his hotel was rated two houses. Restaurants were rated on a one to three star system, with three being perfection.
He told us that there were only eighteen restaurants with three stars, including Lameloise in Chagny. (That was over 20 years ago, by 2006, the number had climbed to 26. In the 2006 Guide, Lameloise has two stars.) He cautioned that it would be impossible to get dinner reservations for tomorrow, but perhaps we could have lunch. Suffice it to say, the next afternoon we lunched at Lameloise.
From the moment we entered Lameloise, we realized that we were on a different level than the night before. Service was immediate and we were led to our corner table. Large flower bouquets brightened the room. The menu ran for several pages, and an eight course “Menu Degustation” immediately caught our attention.
Our waiter told us that the Menu Degustation was a tasting menu composed of “small” portions, and was the best way to sample the Chef’s cooking. We selected that menu, and the sommelier soon appeared and asked if we had picked our wine from the gargantuan wine list. We told him that we liked Pouilly Fuissé and asked for his suggestion.
“You are in Burgundy now, and you should drink Burgundy wine. Try a Puligny Montrachet. If you like Pouilly Fuissé, you will like this even more. Would you like a half bottle of red with your lamb? I would recommend a Gevrey Chambertin.” We readily accepted his recommendations.
We were unprepared for what happened next. Courses started appearing and did not stop until three hours later. Foie gras, salmon, frog legs, duck, lamb. The portions were not exactly small, but neither were they the size we were used to from our travels in Italy and Switzerland. The food was spectacular and was exquisitely presented. The food looked like art and the dining room seemed like heaven on earth. The wine perfectly complemented the food, adding another level of enjoyment to the meal.
The service was flawless, unpretentious and carried out with total professionalism. Warm dishes were brought out under silver bowls, which the waiters removed at precisely the same time. What a show! Although we spoke little French, our waiter spoke English and described each dish as it was served. Water and wine glasses never approached empty, yet we hardly noticed them being refilled.
The night before, at dinner, we were served a plate of three cheeses. My wife, who loves cheese, was delighted. At Lameloise, we selected from over forty cheeses displayed on a cart and arranged on several levels in a variety of categories. My wife was in a state of bliss, especially when she realized that she could sample as many as she liked.
Dessert consisted of several courses. When we thought we had finished, another dessert appeared. First cremè brulé, followed by several chocolate cakes, and finally a variety of sorbet. And, when we thought we could eat no more, out came a spectacular selection of petits fours.
We had never eaten like this before, but knew that we wanted to eat like this again. After we left Lameloise, we went to the nearest bookstore and purchased a copy of the red Michelin guide so that we could continue to experience the pure joy of dining well.